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The swings are the secret center of Estonian village life. ” She laughs: “I have never been higher than the 10th floor.” In Viljandi that evening, they’re celebrating, too.

Our first stop: a garlic festival in Jõgeva with music and dancing, a competition for the biggest bulb, shashlik and garlic beer. Crowds have gathered to mark the 25th anniversary of the small town’s independence.

The underground bunker was built to shelter 250 people for three months.

Here and there, a small settlement with a cell tower, a stork’s nest and a swing set.

This is a special time of year, the brief intermezzo between summer, when the city is full of visitors, and winter, when it is covered in snow, like a sleeping fairy-tale city.

It’s the best time to explore the Baltic region, and that’s what photographer Fabian Weiß and I intend to spend the next ten days doing.

It all took place 25 years ago, but even the children know the songs today.

We spend the night in Tartu, a university town, before heading for Lake Peipus, the rural Baltic, and the kingdom of the Seto.

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That’s the only way to survive the long Baltic winters when people prefer to stay indoors.